Turkmenistan

Turkmenistan is home to striking landscapes and historical marvels that are still largely unknown to the outside world. The most iconic attraction is the Darvaza Gas Crater, also known as the “Door to Hell” — a fiery pit in the Karakum Desert that has been burning continuously since the 1970s, casting a surreal orange glow across the sands at night. The capital, Ashgabat, is a city of gleaming white marble, futuristic architecture, and sweeping boulevards. Here, you can visit Independence Square, the Neutrality Monument, and the Turkmenbashi Ruhy Mosque, one of the largest mosques in Central Asia. To the east lies Merv, once one of the greatest cities of the Islamic world and now a sprawling UNESCO World Heritage Site filled with mausoleums, city walls, and ancient ruins. Other historical highlights include Konye-Urgench, a spiritual site dotted with mausoleums and minarets from the Khwarezm Empire, and Nisa, the Parthian capital with ruins that hint at a once-mighty civilization. The Yangykala Canyons, often compared to the Grand Canyon, feature dramatic red and pink rock formations carved over millennia — best viewed at sunrise or sunset for maximum impact.

Turkmen cuisine shares similarities with other Central Asian countries but has its own rustic, hearty identity. Plov, a rice dish made with carrots, onions, and lamb or beef, is a staple and often cooked in large cauldrons for gatherings. Shurpa, a clear soup made from meat and root vegetables, is served with chunks of bread and is a comforting start to any meal. Manty, steamed dumplings filled with spiced meat, are commonly found in homes and restaurants alike. Grilled meats, especially shashlik (skewered lamb or chicken), are popular and often enjoyed with raw onion, flatbread, and tomato sauces. A typical meal may include chekdermeh, a rice and meat stew cooked in one pot, or ichlekli, a savory meat pie baked into a round shape. Turkmens love green tea, which is served at almost every meal, and sweet options include halva, a sesame or flour-based dessert, and shekerbura, a filled pastry dusted with sugar.

Traveling around Turkmenistan requires a bit of planning, as public transport is limited in some areas. In Ashgabat, buses and taxis are available and affordable. Taxis are generally unmetered, so it's wise to agree on a fare in advance or ask your hotel to arrange trusted drivers. Long-distance buses connect major cities, but journeys can be slow and infrequent. For greater flexibility, private car hire with a driver is the preferred method of travel for visitors and can often be arranged through hotels or local guides. The Turkmen Railways offer overnight train services to cities like Turkmenbashi and Mary, but train conditions are basic and schedules are limited. For internal flights, Turkmenistan Airlines operates a few domestic routes, though these should be booked through local agents. Travelers should note that independent travel outside of Ashgabat is highly regulated, and many sites require travel permits and a registered guide.

Turkmenistan isn’t traditionally a budget travel destination due to its strict visa regulations and tour requirements, but once inside the country, prices for food, local transport, and accommodation are quite reasonable. Hotels outside Ashgabat tend to be basic but affordable, often ranging from $20–50 USD per night, and meals in local cafés rarely exceed $5–10 USD. Street food and local dishes offer great value, especially plov or shashlik from roadside stands. If you are part of an organized tour (required for most travelers), it will typically include transport, lodging, and meals, which makes budgeting more predictable. Currency exchange is best done within the country using US dollars in cash, as foreign cards are not widely accepted, and ATM access is extremely limited.

Turkmenistan is generally a low-crime country, and violent incidents involving tourists are extremely rare. However, it operates under strict government control, and travelers should be cautious about photography — avoid taking pictures of government buildings, military installations, or uniformed personnel, as this can lead to fines or detainment. Always carry your passport and registration documents, especially when traveling between regions or near border zones. Avoid discussing politics or the government in public. Medical facilities in Ashgabat are adequate, but limited outside the capital. It's advisable to travel with comprehensive travel insurance, a first aid kit, and any necessary medications. Bottled water is widely available and recommended for drinking.

Turkmen society is traditional and conservative. Visitors are expected to dress modestly — long pants or skirts and covered shoulders are the norm for both men and women. Greetings are warm but formal; a handshake with the right hand is customary, though men typically don’t shake hands with women unless the woman offers first. Guests are often offered green tea and sweets — always accept with your right hand as a sign of respect. Remove shoes when entering someone’s home, and avoid pointing your feet at people or religious objects. During meals, it is polite to wait until the host invites you to begin eating, and finishing all the food on your plate is considered respectful.

Turkmenistan is ideal for intrepid travelers, history buffs, Silk Road enthusiasts, and lovers of surreal landscapes. It’s a destination best suited for those who appreciate structured travel, cultural contrasts, and deep exploration into little-visited corners of the world. Its strict travel regulations make it less suited for spontaneous or ultra-independent travelers, but for those with curiosity, patience, and a sense of adventure, Turkmenistan offers an unforgettable experience wrapped in mystery and majesty.

Budget travelers will find clean, no-frills lodging in local hotels like Hotel Ak Altyn in Ashgabat or Mary Hotel in the city of Mary, with basic rooms ranging from $25–50 USD per night. These typically include breakfast but minimal English-speaking staff. Mid-range travelers can enjoy more comfortable stays at hotels such as Grand Turkmen Hotel in Ashgabat, offering larger rooms, air conditioning, and better amenities for around $80–120 USD per night. Luxury travelers should consider Yyldyz Hotel, a five-star property perched on a hill overlooking Ashgabat, known for its elegant interiors, panoramic views, and excellent service. Prices start around $200 USD per night, with spa and dining options onsite.

Many travelers fail to account for the strict visa and travel regulations — most must arrange visas in advance and book with a state-licensed guide or tour. Independent travel is not generally allowed, so attempting to roam without permits can result in trouble with authorities. Another mistake is assuming you can use credit cards or find ATMs — bring enough cash to cover your entire stay. Avoid photographing public officials, checkpoints, or government buildings, and always ask before photographing people. It's also important not to underestimate how isolated some destinations are, particularly in the desert — always plan your routes in advance and bring sufficient supplies, especially water.

Due to internet censorship and limited connectivity, it’s important to download essential apps before arrival. Google Maps (offline) is helpful for navigation. Use Google Translate or Yandex Translate with offline Russian and Turkmen for communication. VPNs such as NordVPN or ExpressVPN are crucial for accessing restricted websites or social platforms. Messaging apps like Telegram are commonly used locally. There are few domestic travel apps, so logistics are best handled via local guides. For currency conversion, XE Currency is a must.

A 7–10 day itinerary could begin in Ashgabat, exploring its marble monuments, museums, and bazaars for two days. From there, drive north into the Karakum Desert to witness the Darvaza Gas Crater, ideally camping overnight to view it at its most dramatic. Next, head east to Merv, spending a day or two wandering the ancient ruins. Include a stop at Mary to experience local culture and nearby historical sites. If time allows, travel northwest to Konye-Urgench, an atmospheric archaeological site with minarets and mausoleums rising from the desert. All travel should be done with a registered tour guide, who can also handle permits and logistics efficiently.

Turkmenistan holds the Guinness World Record for having the highest density of white marble buildings — Ashgabat is home to over 500 marble-clad structures, creating a surreal cityscape that gleams under the sun. The country is also famous for the Akhal-Teke horse, an ancient and shimmering breed known for its metallic coat and unmatched endurance. Turkmenistan celebrates Melon Day each August in honor of the Turkmen muskmelon, with festivals, tastings, and cultural events. The Darvaza Gas Crater, though often assumed to be natural, was created accidentally by Soviet geologists who set it ablaze in hopes of burning off leaking methane — it’s been burning for over 50 years.