Sudan

Sudan is home to some of the world’s most extraordinary — yet under-visited — archaeological sites. Foremost among them is Meroë, the ancient capital of the Kingdom of Kush, where travelers can wander among over 200 Nubian pyramids, many in surprisingly good condition and far less touristed than Egypt’s. Nearby, the Royal City of Meroë offers insight into this African civilization’s complex history. In Khartoum, Sudan’s capital, visitors can witness the confluence of the Blue and White Nile Rivers, explore the National Museum which houses rescued treasures from Nubia, and watch the spirited Sufi whirling dervish ceremony held at the Hamed al-Nil Tomb every Friday evening. Further north, the Temple of Amun at Naga and the Roman kiosk at Musawwarat es-Sufra are hauntingly remote ruins that reveal Sudan’s long-standing cross-cultural ties with Egypt and the Greco-Roman world. For a truly off-the-grid experience, travelers can explore the desert around Karima, home to Jebel Barkal, a sacred sandstone mountain once considered the seat of the gods. Its surrounding pyramids and temples were once key to both Egyptian and Nubian religious practices. The Bayuda Desert, with its nomadic tribes and volcanic formations, and the Red Sea coast, with untouched coral reefs near Port Sudan, offer stunning natural contrasts to the Nile's fertile banks.

Sudanese cuisine is simple yet hearty, deeply influenced by Arab, African, and Ottoman flavors. The staple is fuul, a dish of slow-cooked fava beans often served with sesame oil, chopped vegetables, and flatbread. Kisra, a spongy fermented flatbread made from sorghum flour, accompanies most meals, especially when paired with mullah, a savory meat or vegetable stew. Asida, a soft dough-like dish made from wheat or sorghum flour, is another traditional meal, often enjoyed during communal gatherings with sauce or gravy. For meat lovers, shaiyah (fried lamb) and tagine-style dishes are popular, while grilled meats and shawarma reflect Sudan’s Middle Eastern culinary ties. On the sweeter side, dates are ever-present and are often served with tea or milk. Sudanese coffee (jebena) is strong and spiced with ginger or cardamom, typically prepared in a small pot over coals — a ritual in itself. Street snacks like samboosa (samosas) and taamiya (falafel) are cheap and widely available, especially during Ramadan and other festivals.

Travel in Sudan can be logistically challenging due to limited infrastructure and bureaucratic hurdles, but with patience, it’s possible to traverse much of the country. Taxis and rickshaws (called “rakshas”) are common in Khartoum, though fares should always be agreed upon beforehand, as meters are not used. Intercity travel is best done with private drivers, shared taxis, or minibuses (haflas), which depart when full and are the primary mode of transport for locals. Buses do connect major cities like Khartoum, Dongola, Port Sudan, and Kassala, but schedules can be unpredictable and comfort levels vary. Domestic flights between Khartoum and Port Sudan can save time and are operated by a few small carriers. The roads, while often paved on major routes, may be damaged or become impassable in rainy seasons. GPS maps are useful, but offline navigation is essential. Travel permits may be required for certain regions, and travelers should always carry copies of their visa, passport, and travel registration documents, as checkpoints are frequent. It’s advisable to have a local contact or guide when traveling to remote archaeological sites.

Sudan remains incredibly affordable for travelers, particularly due to a low cost of living. Basic guesthouses and local hotels charge modest rates, and meals at street stalls or local eateries are extremely inexpensive. Travelers can fill up on fuul, falafel, and tea for just a few dollars a day. Transportation costs are minimal, especially with minibuses or shared taxis, though longer distances are more comfortably navigated with private hires, which can be arranged at relatively low cost when shared with others. Cash is king, and since ATMs may not accept foreign cards, travelers should bring sufficient U.S. dollars or euros to exchange at reputable currency changers. Use local guides when possible, not just for safety, but because they can help navigate logistical challenges, lower costs through local negotiation, and arrange accommodation, permits, and meals with ease.

Sudan remains a high-risk destination in certain regions due to ongoing political instability, sporadic conflict, and economic challenges. Khartoum, while generally calm, has experienced periods of unrest and protests. Travelers should check current advisories from their governments and avoid conflict zones, particularly areas near the borders with Chad, South Sudan, and the Central African Republic. In areas deemed safe for travel, crime against foreigners is rare but scams and petty theft can occur. It’s crucial to register with the authorities upon arrival and carry all travel permits and identification documents at all times. Photography of government buildings, bridges, and military areas is strictly prohibited and can result in detention. Water should be bottled or purified, and healthcare facilities are basic outside of major cities. Having travel insurance with emergency evacuation coverage is highly recommended. It is also advisable to travel with a local guide or fixer, especially outside of Khartoum, for translation, navigation, and cultural mediation.

Sudan is a conservative Islamic country, and travelers are expected to dress and behave respectfully. Women should wear long sleeves, long skirts or trousers, and a headscarf in public, especially in rural areas. Men should also avoid shorts and sleeveless tops. Public displays of affection are inappropriate, and alcohol is strictly banned. Hospitality is a cornerstone of Sudanese culture — it is common to be invited into homes for tea or a meal, and guests should always accept with appreciation. When entering homes or mosques, remove your shoes. It is respectful to greet others with “Salaam Alaikum” and respond with “Wa Alaikum Salaam.” During Ramadan, avoid eating or drinking in public during daylight hours. Always use your right hand when eating, shaking hands, or giving and receiving items, as the left hand is considered unclean.

Sudan is best suited for adventurous, culturally curious, and historically inclined travelers who are comfortable operating in destinations with limited infrastructure and potential security considerations. It attracts those drawn to ancient history, archaeological exploration, and deep cross-cultural engagement. Sudan is not for luxury vacationers or casual tourists, but for those who seek raw, rewarding, and humbling travel experiences, it offers unparalleled richness, solitude, and discovery.

Budget travelers will find simple guesthouses in cities like Khartoum, Kassala, and Dongola, with prices starting around $10–20 USD per night. Options such as Al Salam Hotel or Acropole Hotel in Khartoum (which is also one of the country’s oldest hotels catering to travelers and journalists) offer safe and basic amenities. Mid-range options are limited but can be found in the capital and larger towns. Hotels like Corinthia Hotel Khartoum or Samiram Hotel offer air conditioning, Wi-Fi, and better service for around $50–100 USD per night. Luxury accommodations are rare outside of Khartoum, but the Corinthia stands as the most modern and comfortable option in the capital, with views over the Nile and diplomatic-level amenities. In remote areas, travelers should prepare for very basic lodging or consider camping with guides, especially when visiting desert ruins or off-grid archaeological sites.

One of the biggest mistakes is assuming Sudan is like Egypt — while they share ancient connections, Sudan’s tourism infrastructure is far less developed, and travelers must be much more self-reliant or work with local contacts. Not bringing enough cash is another frequent issue, as ATMs and card machines are often useless for foreigners. Travelers should also be aware of the strict photography restrictions, especially near sensitive sites or even when photographing locals without permission. Ignoring cultural norms regarding dress and modesty can lead to discomfort or unwanted attention, particularly for women. Finally, not registering with local authorities or skipping required travel permits can lead to problems at checkpoints. Always plan well in advance, check current political conditions, and remain flexible.

Maps.me and Google Maps (offline mode) are essential for navigation, particularly in remote regions. For Arabic translation and communication, Google Translate is helpful, though signal may be intermittent in desert areas. Apps like Currency Converter Plus can help manage the fluctuating SDG exchange rate. WhatsApp is widely used by locals for communication, and having a local SIM card with a data plan from Zain or MTN Sudan can be a game-changer for arranging transport or contacting guides. Be sure to download offline PDFs of permits, maps, hotel addresses, and essential contacts, as internet connectivity is unreliable outside major cities.

A 10-day itinerary for Sudan might start in Khartoum, exploring its museums, souks, and Sufi ceremonies. From there, travelers can head north along the Nile to Karima, visiting Jebel Barkal, the Nuri pyramids, and El Kurru tombs, with overnight stops in basic lodges or Nubian homes. Continue to the Meroë pyramids, perhaps camping nearby for a sunrise experience over the dunes. Those with more time and proper arrangements can venture to Port Sudan for snorkeling and diving in the Red Sea or to Kassala, a colorful city near the Eritrean border known for its dramatic granite mountains and ethnic diversity. The ideal trip style here is guided and slow, allowing time to navigate logistics and engage meaningfully with local history and culture.

Sudan is home to more pyramids than Egypt, with over 200 Nubian pyramids clustered around Meroë and other ancient sites — making it one of the most archaeologically rich countries in Africa. The confluence of the Blue Nile and White Nile occurs in Khartoum and is a significant geographical and cultural landmark. Sudan also boasts one of the oldest continuous civilizations in the world, with recorded kingdoms dating back over 5,000 years. Despite its reputation in the news, Sudanese people are known for their extraordinary hospitality, often going out of their way to help visitors — a trait many travelers remember as a highlight of their experience.