Somalia

Somalia’s attractions are as diverse as its landscape, ranging from sweeping deserts and rugged mountains to the endless beaches of the Indian Ocean. The historic coastal city of Mogadishu, though still recovering from decades of conflict, is home to remnants of Italian colonial architecture, ancient mosques, and bustling seaside markets. The Arba’a Rukun Mosque, dating to the 13th century, and the Mogadishu Cathedral, a symbol of colonial history, reflect the layered past of this port city. To the north, in the self-declared republic of Somaliland, the city of Hargeisa offers a more stable environment and access to one of the region’s most fascinating sites — Laas Geel, a complex of prehistoric cave paintings that date back over 5,000 years and depict cattle herders, dogs, and mystical figures in vivid ochre and white tones. The ancient port of Zeila on the Gulf of Aden was once a thriving Islamic center and is known for its coral stone architecture and proximity to the isolated Sa’ad ad-Din Islands. For coastal beauty, Berbera offers stunning turquoise waters, coral reefs, and long, golden beaches — all largely untouched by tourism. Inland, the Cal Madow Mountains in the northeast shelter unique flora, cool microclimates, and scenic hiking terrain rarely seen by outsiders.

Somali cuisine is a rich blend of Arabian, Persian, Indian, and East African influences, reflecting centuries of trade and migration. A typical breakfast might feature canjeero (a spongy pancake similar to Ethiopian injera) served with butter, honey, or scrambled eggs, often accompanied by a hot spiced tea called shaah. Lunch is traditionally the heartiest meal of the day, often centered around bariis iskukaris (spiced rice cooked with cardamom, cloves, and cinnamon), served with grilled meat such as goat, camel, or chicken. A banana is commonly eaten alongside the rice — a uniquely Somali pairing. Suqaar, a sautéed meat dish with vegetables, is a staple in both homes and restaurants. Sambuusa (a fried pastry filled with minced meat or lentils) is popular during Ramadan and often sold at street stalls. On the coast, seafood plays a central role, with dishes like grilled fish with lemon and green chili, and stews infused with coconut milk and tamarind. Desserts include halwa, a sweet, spiced gelatinous treat made from sugar, oil, and nuts, typically served at weddings and special events.

Transportation infrastructure in Somalia varies widely by region, with the most accessible routes being in Somaliland and major cities like Mogadishu. In urban centers, shared minibuses (buses) and tuk-tuks are the most common means of local transport, though most locals prefer to use private taxis due to safety and reliability. In Hargeisa and Berbera, local taxis are affordable and can be hired for short or full-day trips. Domestic flights on regional carriers like Daallo Airlines or Jubba Airways connect cities like Mogadishu, Hargeisa, Bosaso, and Garowe, and are generally more practical than overland routes due to road conditions and security checkpoints. Travel by car between cities should always be arranged through trusted local drivers familiar with clan territories and security procedures. Armed escorts are sometimes required in unstable regions. In Somaliland, travel is more relaxed, but registering your route and travel intentions with local authorities is still advised. Always check road conditions and security updates before traveling, and coordinate through hotels or guides who understand local dynamics.

Traveling on a budget in Somalia is challenging due to limited infrastructure and the cost of secure transportation, but in regions like Somaliland, it’s more feasible. Guesthouses and small hotels in cities like Hargeisa or Berbera offer basic but clean rooms for $15–$40 USD per night, often with breakfast included. Meals at local restaurants are inexpensive, with generous portions of rice, meat, and fresh fruit available for $3–6 USD. Local markets are great places to buy snacks like dates, roasted peanuts, and fried dough balls, which are both filling and cheap. Hiring local guides or arranging shared group tours through trusted intermediaries can lower costs and improve safety. Public transport within towns is affordable, but for longer routes or flights, budget travelers should plan ahead and compare domestic airline options. It’s important to note that foreign debit or credit cards are generally not accepted, so travelers should bring sufficient USD in cash and exchange only what is needed in trusted currency exchanges.

Somalia presents significant safety challenges, and most foreign governments advise against all travel to many parts of the country, particularly in southern and central regions, due to risks of terrorism, kidnapping, and armed conflict. That said, the autonomous region of Somaliland in the north is considerably more stable, with a functioning government, local police force, and relatively peaceful environment. Travelers visiting Hargeisa, Berbera, or Laas Geel should still remain vigilant, register with local authorities upon arrival, and follow all security protocols. Travel with a local fixer or guide is strongly recommended throughout the country. Avoid nighttime travel, large public gatherings, and any unplanned diversions from main roads or cities. Medical facilities are basic outside of Mogadishu and Hargeisa, so travelers should carry a first aid kit and obtain travel insurance that covers emergency evacuation. Always drink bottled water and be cautious with raw foods.

Somali society is deeply rooted in Islamic traditions and clan structures, and respect for elders, religious customs, and social decorum is highly valued. Visitors should dress conservatively: long sleeves and pants or ankle-length skirts are appropriate for both men and women, and women should cover their hair with a scarf, especially when entering mosques or rural communities. Greetings are formal and polite — a handshake with the right hand is common among men, while women may prefer a nod or verbal greeting instead. Always use the right hand when offering or receiving items, and avoid touching the opposite sex unless invited. Prayer times are observed five times a day, and shops may close briefly to accommodate them. During Ramadan, eating, drinking, or smoking in public during daylight hours is discouraged out of respect. Clan identity is central to Somali culture, so it’s wise to ask your guide about the local context. Showing interest in Somali poetry, camel husbandry, or traditional dances like dhaanto is appreciated and helps bridge cultural gaps.

Somalia is best suited to journalists, historians, cultural anthropologists, extreme adventure travelers, and NGO personnel with a strong appetite for raw, unfiltered experiences and a deep respect for local traditions. This is not a leisure destination in the traditional sense, but for those with the proper preparation and guidance, Somalia offers unmatched cultural depth, ancient history, and insight into the spirit of a nation navigating adversity with resilience and pride.

Budget travelers in Somaliland can find clean, basic accommodations in Hargeisa such as Oriental Hotel, offering private rooms, Wi-Fi, and traditional meals for around $20–30 USD per night. In Berbera, Esco Hotel provides beachfront access at a modest price point. Mid-range travelers can opt for more secure and well-reviewed hotels like Damal Hotel Hargeisa, which offers modern amenities, courteous staff, and 24-hour security. In Mogadishu (for those with diplomatic or NGO clearance), Peace Hotel or Jazeera Palace Hotel are better-equipped and frequently used by international guests. Luxury travelers will find very limited options due to the political situation, but some high-end hotels in Hargeisa — such as the Maansoor Hotel — offer comfortable suites, conference facilities, guarded compounds, and airport pickup services, catering to diplomats and aid workers.

One of the most dangerous mistakes is underestimating the security risks — always check current advisories and coordinate with local guides or fixers. Avoid attempting overland travel between southern cities without proper planning or clearance. Assuming that US dollars or phones will work everywhere can lead to issues — many places lack ATMs or card readers, and electricity and mobile coverage can be unreliable outside of major cities. Disrespecting local customs, especially dress codes or religious practices, can cause serious offense. Always ask before taking photos, particularly of women or in religious spaces. Trying to explore rural or clan-controlled areas alone or uninvited is not advised — always travel with someone who understands the social and tribal landscape.

Maps.me and Google Maps Offline are useful for navigating cities like Hargeisa. WhatsApp is commonly used for communication with hotels and drivers. For currency conversions and budgeting, use XE Currency. Local SIM cards from Telesom or Somtel can be purchased at airports or kiosks for mobile access and mobile money services. Translation apps like Google Translate with Somali downloaded offline are helpful in markets or remote villages.

For those with permission and arrangements in place, a 7-day itinerary might include: 2 days in Hargeisa exploring the local markets and national museum, followed by a half-day trip to Laas Geel for ancient rock art. Spend 1–2 nights in Berbera, enjoying the beaches and seafood. If safe and arranged through secure channels, travel to Zeila for historic Islamic ruins or fly to Garowe or Bosaso to explore Puntland’s mountainous and desert regions. Any visit should be coordinated with trusted local hosts, NGOs, or fixers, and flexibility is essential due to changing conditions.

Somalia has the longest coastline in mainland Africa, stretching over 3,300 kilometers along the Indian Ocean and Gulf of Aden — much of it unexplored by modern tourism. It is home to some of the oldest cave art in Africa, with the Laas Geel rock shelters considered among the best-preserved Neolithic paintings on the continent. Camel culture is deeply ingrained — Somalia is believed to have the largest camel population in the world, and camel milk is a prized delicacy, often served fresh or fermented. Somalis have a rich oral tradition, and poetry is a revered art form used in everything from love songs to political commentary. The Somali flag — a white five-pointed star on a sky-blue field — symbolizes the five regions where ethnic Somalis traditionally live: Djibouti, the Ogaden (Ethiopia), the North Eastern Province (Kenya), Somaliland, and Somalia itself.