Mauritania

Mauritania offers a landscape of stark beauty and deep cultural resonance, where sweeping Saharan dunes meet ancient caravan towns and vibrant local traditions. One of the country’s most famous destinations is Chinguetti, an ancient Islamic trading hub and UNESCO World Heritage Site. Once a major center of Islamic learning, Chinguetti is home to centuries-old stone mosques and ancient libraries that still house handwritten Qur’anic manuscripts and philosophical texts. The city appears to rise out of the sand, with narrow streets, ochre-colored buildings, and a palpable sense of history. Another highlight is Atar and the Adrar Plateau, a base for exploring the desert's dramatic gorges, ancient rock paintings, and palm-filled oases like Terjit, where travelers can bathe in natural springs surrounded by steep canyon walls. For a surreal natural experience, the Richat Structure—often referred to as the “Eye of the Sahara”—is a massive circular geological formation visible from space, located near Ouadane. Coastal Nouadhibou and Cap Blanc draw visitors for their windswept beaches and the haunting presence of the Ship Graveyard, where dozens of rusting vessels rest on the shoreline. Nouakchott, the capital, may not have the polish of other cities, but its vibrant fish market, Camel Market, and National Museum offer raw insight into daily Mauritanian life.

Mauritanian cuisine reflects a fusion of North African and Sub-Saharan culinary influences, deeply rooted in nomadic traditions. Meals often center around grilled meats, rice, and stewed vegetables, with lamb and goat being the most commonly consumed proteins. One of the national dishes is thieboudienne, a flavorful meal of fish, rice, and vegetables simmered in a tomato-based sauce seasoned with garlic, chili, and herbs. Mahfe is a rich peanut sauce dish typically served with rice and either meat or fish. Couscous is also common, served with mutton or chicken and a mix of carrots, potatoes, and pumpkin. Bread—particularly flatbreads like kesra or baguettes introduced during the French colonial era—is eaten with nearly every meal. Tea plays a central role in Mauritanian hospitality. The preparation of ataya, a three-serving green tea ritual, is both a social and cultural experience, with each round of tea growing sweeter and symbolizing friendship and connection. In rural areas, camel milk and dates remain dietary staples, while modern eateries in Nouakchott may offer shawarma, grilled chicken, or rice-based plates catering to international travelers.

Transportation in Mauritania requires flexibility, patience, and an understanding of local norms. Within cities like Nouakchott and Nouadhibou, shared taxis are the primary form of transportation. They operate on fixed routes but can be hailed and boarded en route, often carrying more passengers than Western travelers might expect. For greater comfort and direct routes, private taxis can be arranged, though negotiation over fares is essential before departure. Intercity travel is typically done via long-distance bush taxis (sept-places), which are old Peugeot station wagons modified to seat up to seven passengers. These operate from designated stations and leave when full. The adventurous may consider taking the Mauritania Railway—a nearly 700-kilometer iron-ore train journey from Zouérat to Nouadhibou—where travelers can ride atop the open freight cars, exposed to the elements, for a dramatic and unforgettable experience through the Sahara. Road conditions range from decent to rough, especially in desert regions, and four-wheel drive vehicles are necessary for remote travel. Domestic flights are infrequent and limited in coverage, so most travel is conducted by land.

While Mauritania is not a heavily touristed country, it is possible to travel on a budget by embracing local customs and infrastructure. Shared taxis and sept-places offer affordable transportation between cities and towns. Guesthouses and auberges—particularly in Chinguetti, Atar, and Terjit—are inexpensive and often include meals. Bargaining is expected in markets and sometimes even in hotels, so don't hesitate to negotiate for better prices. Dining at local eateries, called maquis or cafeterias, provides hearty meals for a fraction of the cost of international-style restaurants. Bringing cash is essential, especially in rural areas, as ATMs and card payments are limited to major cities. Avoid booking expensive guided tours from abroad; instead, arrange excursions with local guides once in-country, which will be significantly cheaper and more authentic. Keep in mind that traveling in groups can also reduce transportation and accommodation costs.

Mauritania is generally stable, but travelers should remain cautious and informed. Some areas, particularly along the borders with Mali and Algeria, are not considered safe due to risks of terrorism and kidnapping. It is essential to consult travel advisories from your home government and avoid traveling alone in remote areas. Within cities, petty theft and scams can occur, particularly around markets or bus stations, so keep belongings secure and maintain a low profile. Police checkpoints are common on highways, and travelers should always carry a copy of their passport and visa. While crime is not widespread, cultural misunderstandings can arise, so dressing modestly and showing respect for Islamic customs will help avoid negative attention. It is also advised to avoid photography of government buildings, military personnel, or women without permission. Travel insurance, including coverage for medical evacuation, is strongly recommended, as healthcare facilities are limited outside of the capital.

Mauritania is a deeply Islamic and conservative country where tradition permeates daily life. Modesty in dress is essential—men should avoid shorts, and women are advised to wear loose-fitting clothing that covers the arms and legs; a headscarf, while not mandatory for foreigners, is respectful in rural areas. Greetings are important and often elaborate, involving handshakes, inquiries into health and family, and sometimes multiple rounds of tea. When entering a home, remove your shoes and follow the lead of your host. During meals, it is customary to eat with the right hand from a shared dish; left-handed use is considered impolite. Public displays of affection are frowned upon, and alcohol is generally unavailable due to Islamic law. Non-Muslims are welcome in the country but should be sensitive to religious customs, particularly during Ramadan, when eating, drinking, or smoking in public during daylight hours is discouraged. Photography of people—especially women—should only be done with explicit permission.

Mauritania is best suited to adventurous and culturally curious travelers who are comfortable with unpredictability, minimal infrastructure, and immersive travel experiences. This is a destination for those seeking raw, unfiltered encounters with the Sahara, Islamic heritage, and West African nomadic life. Backpackers and overlanders will appreciate the challenge and reward of independent travel, while cultural historians and spiritual seekers will find value in visiting the ancient cities and engaging with traditional communities. Mauritania is not ideal for luxury-seekers, digital nomads, or families with small children due to its demanding environment. Those who thrive on simplicity, solitude, and expansive desert horizons will leave with unforgettable memories and a profound sense of awe.

For travelers on a tight budget, small auberges and local guesthouses in Atar and Chinguetti offer simple lodging with shared bathrooms and traditional meals, often for less than $15 per night. These accommodations are typically family-run and offer a culturally immersive stay. Mid-range visitors will find decent comfort at hotels in Nouakchott like Hotel Halima, which provides clean, air-conditioned rooms, Wi-Fi, and a restaurant serving local and international cuisine. Another option is Hotel Wissal, which is slightly more upscale but still accessible. For luxury-seeking travelers, accommodations are limited but possible at Hotel Semiramis in Nouakchott, known for its more refined rooms, swimming pool, and modern amenities. While luxury choices are sparse, travelers can sometimes arrange for comfortable desert camps or oases stays near Terjit or Chinguetti, where the natural setting and tranquility more than make up for the lack of opulence.

One major mistake is underestimating the vast distances and rough terrain between destinations. Travelers often fail to account for long travel times, unpredictable weather, or vehicle breakdowns when planning itineraries. Others assume that Western standards of accommodation, food hygiene, or transportation will be available—which they usually are not. Many visitors also make the mistake of not securing enough cash or relying too heavily on ATMs or credit cards. Overlooking the need for modest dress or disregarding local customs can inadvertently offend hosts. Lastly, some travelers book international-style tours without realizing that better experiences and rates can often be had by connecting directly with local guides on the ground.

Due to spotty internet and low digital infrastructure, travelers should rely on offline-friendly tools. Maps.me is a useful offline navigation app for desert routes and cities. Google Translate is helpful, especially for French-Arabic translation, although it struggles with Hassaniya dialects. WhatsApp is the preferred messaging app among locals and useful for coordinating with guides or accommodations. Downloading offline phrasebooks and travel guides can be a lifesaver when internet is unavailable. For those riding the Mauritania Railway, a good weather app and a flashlight or headlamp app are essential tools. Since mobile coverage is limited outside urban centers, consider carrying a local SIM card with data from Mauritel or Chinguitel.

A thoughtfully paced itinerary begins in Nouakchott, where travelers can explore the National Museum and the colorful fish market before heading north by road or air to Atar. From there, one or two days in the historic town of Chinguetti allow for immersion in Mauritania’s spiritual and architectural heritage. Next, a night or two in Terjit offers rest and reflection in a desert oasis, bathing in natural springs and enjoying starlit skies. For the adventurous, a ride atop the Mauritania Railway offers a dramatic journey through the desert, ideally ending in Nouadhibou, where you can view the eerie shipwrecks of Cap Blanc. Such an itinerary balances culture, history, and the Sahara’s harsh but captivating beauty, while also allowing time for rest and cultural interaction. Travelers should always include buffer days for transportation delays or weather disruptions.

Mauritania is one of the few countries in the world where slavery persisted well into the 20th century, officially abolished in 1981 but still existing in pockets of society today, despite international condemnation. The country is also home to one of the world’s longest trains—the Mauritania Railway—which can stretch up to 2.5 kilometers in length and carries iron ore across the desert. Interestingly, Mauritania was once almost entirely nomadic, with urbanization only accelerating in the latter half of the 20th century due to droughts that pushed people from the countryside into cities. The “Eye of the Sahara” has baffled scientists for decades with its unusual geological formation, often mistaken for an impact crater. Mauritania’s flag, a green field with a gold crescent and star, symbolizes Islam, while red stripes were added in 2017 to represent the blood shed for independence.